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Triton T80si Problems

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The Triton T80xr Electric Shower is no longer available as a new unit but its spare parts are still widely available from www.showerdoc.com. Electric showers like any other home appliance can develop faults. Whether the shower is running too cold, hot or not at all a replacement part is often enough to cure the problem.

Acquired a new Triton T80 Easi-fit shower from B&Q and fitted by a plumber on 20/7/20. The shower failed to work and considered by the plumber to be defective. I messaged Triton, emailed them on 21/7/20 and attempted to call for over 30 minutes on 3 separate days. To date I haven't had a response from Triton. Triton has been making showers for more than 40 years and offers a wide choice, including digital, mixer, power and electric models. Triton showers tend to dominate the entry-level, budget segment of the market, but the company also produces a number of mid-level and premium showers. T80si electric shower ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS Shepperton Park, Triton Road, Nuneaton, Warwickshire, CV11 4NR WARNING! W-006-A THIS APPLIANCE MUST BE EARTHED The installation, supply cable and circuit protection must conform with BS 7671 (IEE Fig. Wiring regulations) and be sufficient for the amperage required. This is a transcript of our YouTube video covering most common electric shower faults. Scroll below to watch the full video. Here at The Shower Doctor, everyday we receive emails and phone calls from people that have faults with their electric shower, so what we are about to do here is run through the top 5 faults with electric showers and give you some idea of where to look to find where the.

Below is a list of common faults and troubleshooting methods for the Triton T80xr Electric Shower. For a complete list of available spare parts please visit www.showerdoc.com

FAQ

Dripping when the shower is switched off

It sounds like the solenoid/stabiliser valve is not closing properly and needs to be replaced. A spare solenoid/stabiliser valve can be found here: www.showerdoc.com

Shower doesn't turn off

T80si
Triton t80si problems 5th

If the flowing water is cold after turning off the power then it may be a faulty solenoid valve. You can test the solenoid valve using a multimeter. There should be a reading of 3.5 kOhms across the two terminals. Any less then it needs replaced. Make sure to test the solenoid valve in the failed state.
This video is intended as a general guide and does not cover every shower: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc
If you don't have access to a multimeter one can be found here: www.showerdoc.com
As well as helping you diagnose your shower they are really useful for checking other appliances, fuses and remaining power in batteries.

Water leaking from showerhead and overflow

The pressure relief device has likely blown. It is a safety device on the bottom of the heating tank or outlet pipe. Although it is fairly easy to replace there is usually a reason it has blown. Before fitting a new PRD check that the hose isn't kinked and that the showerhead isn't blocked.
A replacement pressure relief device may be found here: www.showerdoc.com
Below is a general video about replacing the outlet pipe PRD:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=2B1Tg7XXKtE

Shower randomly cuts out

This may be caused by a faulty element in the heating tank. You can test them using a multimeter- you should have a reading between 12 and 18 ohms.
If you have power to the elements and no heat it's likely the elements; if there's no power to the elements then it's likely the microswitch.
A spare heating tanks and microswitches for the T80xr can be found here: www.showerdoc.com

Upgrading the heater can

It is not possible to upgrade the heater can of an electric shower- the internal wiring is too different. If the cable can take the extra current then it is safer to replace it with a higher kilowatt unit. A huge selection of new electric showers can be found here: www.showerdoc.com

Cold water leaking from the stabiliser valve

The stabiliser valve has likely become faulty. A replacement can be found here: www.showerdoc.com

Triton T80z Problems

Leaking water near the solenoid

There is an 'O' Ring seal that could be replaced. All available T80xr spare parts may be found here: www.showerdoc.com

Water too hot

Triton T80si Problems Transmission

First check that the main water valve into the house is fully open. Then check any additional valves leading up to your shower. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower. This will trigger the overheat safety device to turn off power until it cools. Then it all starts again.
Make sure that the shower head is clean and the hose isn't kinked. Try to to check the inside of the hose- it may look fine on the outside but it may have collapsed internally.
Another possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower. A rough check is to remove the shower head, set the temperature control to fully hot and take note of the amount of water flow. Then turn the shower to fully cold. If there isn't a big difference between the two flows then you may have a faulty flow valve. A spare flow valve may be found here: www.showerdoc.com

Triton t80si problems list

Shower cuts out after a few minutes

Triton T80si Problems

If the flowing water is cold after turning off the power then it may be a faulty solenoid valve. You can test the solenoid valve using a multimeter. There should be a reading of 3.5 kOhms across the two terminals. Any less then it needs replaced. Make sure to test the solenoid valve in the failed state.
This video is intended as a general guide and does not cover every shower: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc
If you don't have access to a multimeter one can be found here: www.showerdoc.com
As well as helping you diagnose your shower they are really useful for checking other appliances, fuses and remaining power in batteries.

Water leaking from showerhead and overflow

The pressure relief device has likely blown. It is a safety device on the bottom of the heating tank or outlet pipe. Although it is fairly easy to replace there is usually a reason it has blown. Before fitting a new PRD check that the hose isn't kinked and that the showerhead isn't blocked.
A replacement pressure relief device may be found here: www.showerdoc.com
Below is a general video about replacing the outlet pipe PRD:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=2B1Tg7XXKtE

Shower randomly cuts out

This may be caused by a faulty element in the heating tank. You can test them using a multimeter- you should have a reading between 12 and 18 ohms.
If you have power to the elements and no heat it's likely the elements; if there's no power to the elements then it's likely the microswitch.
A spare heating tanks and microswitches for the T80xr can be found here: www.showerdoc.com

Upgrading the heater can

It is not possible to upgrade the heater can of an electric shower- the internal wiring is too different. If the cable can take the extra current then it is safer to replace it with a higher kilowatt unit. A huge selection of new electric showers can be found here: www.showerdoc.com

Cold water leaking from the stabiliser valve

The stabiliser valve has likely become faulty. A replacement can be found here: www.showerdoc.com

Triton T80z Problems

Leaking water near the solenoid

There is an 'O' Ring seal that could be replaced. All available T80xr spare parts may be found here: www.showerdoc.com

Water too hot

Triton T80si Problems Transmission

First check that the main water valve into the house is fully open. Then check any additional valves leading up to your shower. If these valves are not fully open then there may not be enough water getting to your shower. This will trigger the overheat safety device to turn off power until it cools. Then it all starts again.
Make sure that the shower head is clean and the hose isn't kinked. Try to to check the inside of the hose- it may look fine on the outside but it may have collapsed internally.
Another possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower. A rough check is to remove the shower head, set the temperature control to fully hot and take note of the amount of water flow. Then turn the shower to fully cold. If there isn't a big difference between the two flows then you may have a faulty flow valve. A spare flow valve may be found here: www.showerdoc.com

Shower cuts out after a few minutes

This may be caused by a faulty solenoid valve. You can test it using a multimeter: you should get a reading of at least 3.5 kOhms across the two terminals in its failed state. Any less and you need a new valve which can be found here: www.showerdoc.com
www.youtube.com/watch?v=NzJjzWqxesc
This video is intended as a rough guide and does not cover every shower.
If you don't have access to a multimeter one can be found here: www.showerdoc.com. Apart from helping you to test your solenoid valve they are useful for checking other appliances, fuses and letting you know how much power you have left in batteries- well worth a few pounds.


Triton T80xr Manuals and Fitting Guides
Triton T80xr Installation Guide

First check that the main valve coming into your house is fully open. Then check all the valves on the line to the shower is fully open. If there isn't enough water to cool the shower properly the safety device will turn off the power until it cools and starts to heat again- this cycle will keep repeating until corrected. Rhino crack.

Make sure that the shower head is clean and that the hose isn't kinked. Check the hose thoroughly- it may look okay externally but could have collapsed internally.

The other possibility is a faulty flow/stabilizer valve not allowing the correct amount of water into the shower.

A rough check is to remove the shower head, turn the temperature control to fully hot. Take a note of the water flow. Then turn the water to fully cold. If there isn't a big difference between the two then you could have a faulty flow valve.

A replacement flow valve may be purchased online here: www.showerdoc.com





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